To put it simply, the beginning was difficult. It still is the beginning, but it has recently gotten a lot better.
I arrived here on Tuesday. My host sister became aware that I could understand French and all went downhill from there. Mind you, she found that out nearly instantaneously. Now it is nearly impossible to get her to speak Darija [Moroccan Arabic] with me—but it is getting much better. Two night ago was the ‘power night’ of Ramadan, the night when the angel Gabriel delivered the Koran to Muhammad. As such many members of the extended family (three other children are also hosting trainees) ate at my house where the mother (and grandmother) lives. One of the sisters asked ‘mine’, Bouchera, if she was speaking with me in Arabic and replied about a time I had asked about some things, but since then it has increased. We actually went on a walk together tonight through the town. I got some more credit for my telephone and she got an outfit and a tablecloth.
Speaking here is interesting. As you may recall, I am living with an 84 year old woman, a 65 year old woman and Bechouba is 34. I think the 84 year old, Zineb, sometimes speaks to me in a Berber dialect and I very rarely catch what she says, and the 65 Khaduj speaks basically only Darija, which is good, and she tries to communicate with me though it is slightly more trying to find a common topic [yea, food!], then the other tries to speak to me in French. There is a son [really there are 7 daughters and 2 sons] who visits every day (so far) to break the fast (no, I am not officially fasting, but sine I don’t wake up for breakfast at 3 and only manage small lunches, it’s nearly worse) and he speaks to me in regular speed Darija and is really curious about what I am doing/learning. His name is Aziz and he is 27. He has been really helpful. Everyone is speaking to me more, and more often in Darija.
BUT
This night, when I got home from my walk, I showed pictures of Chicago, and my family, and some of you J to Khaduj and Bouchera in Picasa and Bouchera saw some of my titles that were in Hebrew from Israel. She lived and worked there at a hospital for SEVEN YEARS and she SPEAKS some HEBREW!! So… of course, we conversed in Hebrew. Yet another (albeit FABULOUS) obstacle! I feel so much more at ease. I was getting pretty annoyed, honestly, with the lack of people to speak to, and to speak in Darija with. But at least now I can relax now that the big Israel secret is out in the open. We didn’t really talk about it too much except that I studied there (ie nothing too political) but to spend so much time there, and to be so at ease with speaking it and smiling and oh! the relief!, I feel a thousand times better! Even if she keeps speaking to me in French! Hahaha
As that just happened I am fairly unable to process anything else but I’ll try to summarize other things as best I can.
We arrived on Tuesday, classes began Wednesday. We go to class 8:30-12:30, 2-5. Tomorrow (Saturday) we’re going 9-1. Sometime next week our work at the dar chebab (children’s center) will start, the day is yet to be determined.
My home is really nice. We live in a 3 level home in the third floor apartment. Another child and family live below us along with another trainee. I just visited there briefly for the first time today after school. Yea for having someone to walk to and fro with!
Finances… the peace corps provides money for food and pc related travel. Like in Côte d’Ivoire, food here is really cheap, and so far, much like there, associated costs of phones have become my biggest expense. Luckily, Aziz is letting me use one of his old phones so I have only had to buy a sim card and credits but I imagine I’ll need to buy my own before I leave for the next city. The PC also have us reimbursements for baggage fees and some money in DC of which I only used $16 at the airport on Benadryl and robitussin so once I make it to a bank to exchange the money I should be in great shape. (And when I have bought credit it has doubled because of Ramadan specials. Supposedly people stock up on them this time of year because of the discounts).
Yesterday we (the trainees) all gathered here again for medical talks/warnings and rabies shots. One youth development volunteer has already decided to go home because she didn’t like her site (mind you we’re only at our present locations until early November) and I heard this morning in class that two of the small business development volunteers have decided to go home as well. Oh well I guess. Better to leave early than late if at all. I guess.
Anyway. All is well here on my end. And apparently getting better and better. I’m still in shock about the past hour’s discovery.
I was telling Laura earlier today that when I was walking home from class I, for the first time since I have been here, truly understood that I was in Morocco, and my, it’s been getting better all the time.
I am having mini [very small!!] conversations in Darija but I have already learned so much and am understanding so much more than when I arrived. I can’t imagine how much I will know by November {but I have to test into Novice High to continue] but I am suddenly re-excited and energized.
Oh! Btw! Today after class I also discovered that I have internet in my house! So for all of you who I owe an email, be patient and hopefully I can reply soon. There is only one cord so I still can’t log in whenever I want but it is free and conveniently located. Haha I think i’m averaging about once every other day or so.
So I realize that contrary to my usual behavior, i haven’t taken any pictures since I’ve been in this city? Why? No idea. I’ll try to get on that asap.
Random observation: TV. They watch a lot of it here. I’ve never seen so many Sensodyne, Pepsi, Lacoste (some new men’s fragrance), and Christian Dior Fahrenheit (another fragrance) commercials. There is also a really cute one sponsored by Zain, which I think is some telecommunications company which turns into an animated song about Eid that is really really cute. Usually Aziz sings along. hahaha
ANYWAY, one just came one that I haven’t seen before advertising cooking oil and I am pretty sure it was Feist’s “1 2 3 4” but sung in Arabic and that caught me wholly off guard. AWESOME! 
And on that note, I’m out! Bsslama!
(bye! In peace!)
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